Night in

Our initial visit yesterday with Bolot was brief and a little underwhealming. Perhaps he was stressed at work, but when we met him today, he was much happier. He took us to the other side of town to source our infamous fuel filter. Well in short, we didn't find it but instead settled on buying another primary filter to supplement the spare I have on the roof. Bolot was a treat to spend time with and made us feel at home.

Yesterday evening, Cassie had a brilliant conversation with the fruit/veg vendor across from our hotel. Although now we've forgotten what potato and tomato were, it was still worth it. Everyone we talk to is interested in us. We can have no common language, but if we strike up a 'conversation' be it verbal or non-verbal, we're all left feeling richer as a result.

Having checked out at 11AM, and spending the day with Bolot, we returned to the hotel around 3PM to pickup the car and refill our water bottles. I had used them to top up the washer bottle... oops! I returned to the hotel with 4 bottles and a thermos with intent of filling the thermos with boiling water which saves us a heap of gas (which we've been unable to source more of). I wandered into reception like a guest, realised it was a bit obvious to use that water station, so instead walked up to the second floor to use the inconspicuous machine. I'd finished filling the bottles and heard someone coming down the hall. A well dressed man (possibly the owner/manager) seemed excited to see me and talk about my 'machina' outside. We walked together talking the whole time until we went out the last of the front doors. I encouraged him to come over and look but he declined... I think he was escorting me off the premises. Oh well! Hats off to him, he was very non-confrontational.

Having filled up with ice cold filtered 'driving water' from the hotel, we headed off to the port... if you can call it that, it's more like a dirt boat-ramp. On the way we noticed some gents filling up one of those huge agricultural plastic containers. You know, the ones that have like 6 metal pipe 'rings' around them to keep it togeather. I realised it was fresh water and pulled up behind them. I got out with our 20L container and gestured to the effect of 'Can I drink this and fill my container?' of which they nodded. Without any hesitation they stopped filling their epic container, removed the hose and implied that I was ok to fill mine now. I gestured towards 'no no no no, I'm happy to wait' but they insisted. They held the valve open for me and it was filled in a jiffy. Wow, so nice and generous. Just when you think you've got a culture sewn up, your mind gets blown open again.

Like lightening striking twice, we drove straight onto the barge today. No hassles whatsoever! The research I'd done previously suggested that the barges only run 3-4 times a day. Even Bolot said they only run 4 times a day, but as far as we can tell, they run much more frequently... This time we managed to pay without problem. It cost 495Rub or ~ $15 AUD. Leaving the barge, we were 2nd last in line followed by a single bread loaf. He had the audacity to overtake us on the barge. In a boisterous but 'desperate to prove how stupid pushing in was' move, I dumped the clutch, squealed the tyres and raced him all of 5-10M down the slippery steel barge. Having lost the race, in true loser fashion he still tried to squeeze in front once we had stopped. I squashed his ill-gotten gain by forcing our bull-bar towards his flank. He surrendered, earning us a valuable half second!

After the barge, in high spirits we decided to fill up before embarking on what's left of the M56. For the first time, I wore a disposable glove to fuel the car because the bowser's always greasy with diesel. We were doing so well with the process:
1) We identified the button we needed to press
2) I'd put the nozzle in the car
3) Cassie had paid and was walking back over
4) I pressed the button on the side of the bowser.

The satisfying sound of the pump running was terrific! The joy was squashed in slow motion by the nozzle blowing out of the car under pressure - like when you drop the end of a garden hose. Within a second the babushka had stopped the pump - she must have been watching. Not before I was covered from head to toe in greasy diesel, along with the side of the car.
Three things I'm very appreciative of:
1) It was diesel and not petrol
2) I had the unknown foresight to close the drivers side door - normally I leave it open to put the keys back in the ignition and rest the fuel cap on the side board.
3) I had sunglasses on - again, very rare for me. They are super dark, so all logic would suggest I wouldn't be wearing them to fuel the car. (I went overkill when purchasing as a result of the glare from the dust)

It happened to another customer on the other side of the station. Again, within half a second, she had stopped the pump... this must happen a lot! Sure, I should have held on to it... but then again, if it wasn't 1CM wide, the pressure wouldn't make it blow out, and if it was wider, it wouldn't fall out. Maybe if I didn't have to press the button?... Maybe I'm just ranting.

We're continually gobsmacked by the good fortune we've had during this trip. If ever an opportunity has come up where it could have gone either way, it's gone the best way it could. Examples include, lucking out on the: stopover hotel, shipping, the car fitting in the contain with the roof rack on, customs, paperwork, insurance, the car, finding gas cans, the weather, people helping us, campsites, barges, finding water. You name it, we've lucked out on every occasion.
We've stopped for the night by a beautiful dam/lake/depression maybe 10KM out of whatever the town is on the western side of the river that runs past Yakutsk. (isn't my geography and cartography showing such prowess!?) We chose this spot so I could have a bath and wash my clothes of diesel. It was everywhere. My ears, forehead, neck, eyelids, lips but thankfully not my eyes. I smell fine now, but my clothes are a write-off. The lake/dam/depression has a really shallow muddy entrance to it but is beautiful like a post card. Local bugs include brilliant purple dragon flies which I hope I have a picture of.

I think we're having more success spending the time writing these posts as opposed to just throwing something together to justify making a post. So we might end up posting one or two posts, but uploading every couple of days rather than every day. Stopping earlier and spending more time is grand. Pushing to get a post out each day feels too much like work.

As I was walking back to the car after washing up, a GQ Nissan Patrol came down to the water with three men in it. They swiftly rolled out an inflatable boat fit for two of them and started pumping it up. They were quick to come over and introduce themselves and were taken by the car. They took their picture in front of it and I snapped one or two as well. We've now had success offering lollies to people, they love it and it just feeds the circle of conversation and giving. They took off for an hour or so and called us over when they returned. 'Reba! Reba!' We scuttled over with bare feet to discover a pile of fish of some unknown type, maybe 6" long? They would have had 30 and I'm sure were offering us some. We politely declined. I took more pictures of them and they jokingly insisted it go into the 'Sydney Gazette'. Ahh another brilliant interaction.

The highs and lows are astounding. Cassie was furious after the fueling incident, but giddy after the successful interaction with the greengrocer and the fishermen. It's all good however and all makes for great stories and memories. I find it weird to think that in some small way, we're in someones life now. Like our photo, on their camera/computer, on the other side of the world... so weird! I can't describe the sensation. Maybe because the photo will just be an anonymous drop in the ocean that will never resurface.

Bolot said since announcing our arrival on Facebook, we've been offered support at several points along the road and in Magadan. That combined with people who would like to meet us towards lake Biakal. He has emailed us these contact details which is grand.