Cassie: We've done hours and hours of driving today on horrible roads and it's been slow going because of the state of them. Yes Jon, the last 500km into Yakustk are doozies! The roads are shocking - literally, because of all the pot holes...large and small. We hit many massive holes in the road today but one of them broke the seam of our camp shower thing. We had it filled with water from a river and it was heating up on the roof of the car ready for us to bathe with later today. So we're driving along, BANG, hit the hole and then there's water running all over the car. We pulled over and confirmed that the shower bag had busted a seam. So now I'm measuring pot holes on the "Shower Bust" scale...I judge whether or not it's a shower bag buster or not. We suppose we're in for this again tomorrow for the next 260km or so to Yakustk.
Not much more to say really. We got a few waves from road work people today which is nice. Normally the Russians are up for the stare without so much as a smile or a nod of the head. They just stare at us unashamedly without any other acknowledgment. Pretty funny really. Didn't their mothers tell them it's rude to stare? Haha. Anyway, buoyed by the waves earlier in the day we started waving at every road work person we came to. We only achieved one more wave for the day. Oh well. We also passed the guy towing the boat again today. Only difference was, we saw the boat on the side of the road but no car. About an hour or so later we passed him coming the other way. He was flashing his lights, beeping his horn and waving his arm out the window like a madman. And of course we were doing the same to him. It's a bit of fun on an otherwise monotonous day.
Graeme: Yeah, I ain't got much of worth to contribute. Beautiful country as always. We managed to get two waves returned today. One from a road crew and one from a guy hanging off a rail maintenance machine... but I see Cassie has stolen that contribution. The road is rubbish full stop. How any machine can stand this torture I don't know. Ours is going like a trooper. I have no idea how they could build something to run on such rough roads without one single complaint. Tyres still look great, no chips or anything. Our max speed is around 70-80kph and we're running 1.5 bar in the fronts and 1.75 in the rear. We met a man at a service station who had ALL gold teeth. woah - he looked like something from a James Bond movie. He was lovley, we didn't have anything in common but 'land cruiser' puncturated with many thumbs up. Did I tell you we have seen ONE troop carrier like ours? We saw it many moons ago in Khabarovsk. They are certainly unique here.
At our camp tonight, we have no mosquitoes but hundreds of little flying bugs which seem to be capable of getting through our flyscreens! That's not cool guys! We have laughed in the face of numerous flies and mosquitoes trying to get at us while we relax or sleep... they have sent avengers it seems. We may have got the last laugh however because we ran the aircon for 5 minutes and our house is comfortable again.
We have done 425KM today and didn't stop and smell the roses much... but then again, nothing looked like you'd want to smell it. We did have lunch at some nightclub/restaurant which was nice. Borsh with sour cream and old bread. Russians do love to convert every building into some kind of multi-purpose arena. At Hotel Vladivostok, I have vague recollections that the dining room had neon signs for 'Casino', 'Strip Club', 'Billards' and 'Cafe'. Thankfully we only saw it running as Cafe.
I do look forward to getting to Yakutsk, hopefully its not too much of a 'barge' for the ferry :-P. I got the impression they only run once or twice a day, so hopefully we get across the mighty river tomorrow. Then there will be carpet, showers and wifi! the cornerstones of happiness. That, and a new fuel filter. It's been running swell today - might I even say a little more power?
Good afternoon, good evening and good night.
Good night. :-)
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ReplyDeleteQuote "Good morning, and in case I don't see ya, good afternoon, good evening, and good night!"
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When you get this you will be 'enjoying' a Russki hotel, actually, a Sakha hotel (technically Yakutia / Sakha is a different country, it has its own parliament and is part of the Federation of Russian States - the Sakha people are more related to the Mongolian and US Eskimo than the Russians).
ReplyDeleteI hope you didnt find the barge too confusing. We struggled to actually find the departure point, but it was bleedingly obvious when we got there. There are barges running pretty much every hour, but to 'Russian time'. (ie whenever!)
Take some time in Yakutsk to look around. It looks like a bomb site on first impressions, but there is serious wealth (there is a lot of mining nearby) and as a result some really funky shops. (All are inside because it gets to minus 60 in winter). Make the most of civilisation as there is not much until you get to Magadan, and even Magadan is pretty bleak compared to Yakutsk.
Two things that are worth doing are the Permafrost Institute (at the University) and the cultural centre at Chochur Moran on the oustkirts of town. Your hotel should be able to arrange both. The Permafrost Institute is not cheap, but worthwhile checking out their research under the ice. You get hosted by the Professor - I doubt that the ANU profs would host tourists! The cultural centre at Chochur Moran has a cool ice cave. They run this as a tourist venture. If you go, give our regards to Guermann and his family. His son, Max, was interested in studying in Brisbane.
As you have now picked up, all Russians understand 'Landcruiser' and you will get Karoshoo Machina (good machine). You should not have too much trouble getting your fuel filter. Guermann is a member of the local 4WD club so you might even be able to get his help.
The real adventure is about to start. The barge times to Kandygha are somewhat erratic at best. Be prepared to wait. And even if you decide that the old road is too difficult, you MUST get to Tomtor (apart from the river crossing at Kyubeme, the road is fairly OK to Tomtor). They have a cool museum and ice cave there too. We had to ask someone at the bank to show us around (but foreigners stick out like the proverbial there, so you will eventually get help).
It is so cool reading your blog - it is really like re-living our trip last year!
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