Wow - I have no idea where to begin. I feel almost catatonic, perhaps it's fatigue. Perhaps I just need to document this
Today started really well, great sleep, relaxed start to the day. I spent about 30-45 minutes walking up down and across the river we needed to cross. We crossed it successfully, got some decent video, and enjoyed the first 50km or so in our wonderful adventure on the old summer road.
We picked up a husband and wife 'hunter' who were nice enough, and eventually dropped them at thier dwelling. As we pulled into the driveway, that old 'tisss tiss tiss' as the wheel rotates indicating a puncture in the rear left. That's ok I thought, we changed the tyre in their front yard accompanied by a grazy old guy and a young guy who dropped in, speaking limited english but very nice.
We changed the tire, a puncture in the sidewall, about 1" from the tread. Damn, can't fix it with the plug kit. Jinxed by my stupid video I thought.
As we were packing up to leave, the 'hunter' and his wife came out (after all the hard work was done) with a sac which sounded to be full of glass bottles. Difficult to negotiate our way out of it, we proceeded to give them a lift towards Tomtor, some 100KM away. We set off again, a bit bitter at being roped into this again, but happy to not be stranded. No less than 5KM down the road, the familiar sound was heard again, same wheel, rear left. This tyre was brand new - seriously! still had all the little molding 'hairs'. Oh crap, that's our two spare tyres consumed, 55KM into the old summer road. At first I thought it had just came off the bead. With some air and effort it seated again! success I thought, but as I ran my hand around the back side, a 1" section had busted through. I was not happy, but Cassie was loosing her cool with our passengers. She somehow escorted them out of the car. Low and behold they are drinking Vodka. Our first citation of the liquid in common cult
ure. She has a whole story to tell here, I guess I'm just unloading off my chest and she'll clarify the details. Again, unwilling to assist, they sat on the shoulder drinking whilst not ten minutes ago, I'm repeating this process. Thankfully a truck came by and they got a lift back to thier dwelling. Phew.
We then had to make the call whether to continue to Tomtor (95KM away) with no spare tyres with view to getting new tyres, or go back to Kyemebe (no doubt spelt wrong) which only had a fuel station, then drive ~270KM to Ust Nera. We were under the impression at this stage that the road was open. We nursed the car and our new (used) spare tyre at no more than 40KM/H to Tomtor. During this time, it occurred to us that maybe our bad fortune with tyres was a result of underinflated tyres from taking on 150-200KG over one wheel without increasing pressure. When we changed to the 1st spare, we adjusted the pressure back down in line with the same tyre on the axle (1.75bar). It didn't cross our mind that this could have been the problem, because without the load, we'd done at least 1500KM at these pressures. It may not be significant enough, but maybe it was the straw that broke the camels back... twice. As soon as we dumped those hicks, no problems.
Sorry Jon & Amanda, but we were not in the right frame of mind to enjoy Tomtor - I don't think we've yet learned this patience thing. Delays = stress in my mind. Well, I'm not sure if it's delays that stress me, but the uncertainty that of the fact that the tyres would not be delivered to here. We feel entirely trapped.
After maybe 30 minutes of discussions with some local contacts Bolot organised, A gentleman and his wife arrived in their Nissan GQ Safari Patrol. He (Andre) said we could fit 'camera' to our tyres which meant tubes. These are tubeless tyres, but it has been known to work. They quoted 4000R, 2000R for the tubes and 2000R for the effort to fit them. Well, he certainly earnt his 2000R because that was a difficult job. I'm very appreciative of his efforts, but I suspect the damage to the tyres can't be rectified by tubes. It may get us a few kilometers, but not much more. One tyre (which I thought had the least damage) he indicated was to be a spare, not good enough to use. The other, which has a serious bulge our the side with the tube sticking out is apparently the good one. Maybe I interpreted the wrong way around, but either way, we're rolling as if we have no more spare tyres. Andre runs at 30PSI or 2.1Bar which we have increased ours to. There's a chance we can fix damage
in the tread but we have no hope in the sidewall where the damage keeps occouring. Andre's wife (Sargolini) gifted some blue 'pole of cold' certificates so we can show the world how awesome we are. Even though, in retrospect we will have hated every second of our mechanised entrapment. Andre and Sargolini were lovley. Seriously. Great interaction today with these people. They've given us there skype and email which is amazing.
There is a very strong possibility that Ust Nera will also not have our tyres. It's been suggested that we ask Bolot to order some for us, but that is too imposing for our liking. He won't take any payment which is a concept I struggle with. I have no problem asking people for things if I can pay them somehow.
Our tyres are LT265/65/17, Toyota 5 stud to suite 2001 78 series LC if anyone wants to magically put some on our roof rack overnight?. Santa? Jebus?
I think after our dinner conversation that the plan is:
Option A)
-Limp back to Kyemebe with our four hopefully good tyres (and two very suspect spares)
-Get fuel (currently we have about 60%, which is still heaps) The diesel pump wasn't clearly marked in Tomtor, so we're not willing to risk getting the wrong fuel.
-We write/call to Bolot asking him to check stock of our tyres in Ust Nera.
If they have some, or can have some within two days, have Bolot order them, and we continue to Magadan.
Option B)
We'll also confirm if someone in Yakutsk has some. If they have some, we'll go to Yakutsk, get tyres and come back (four days wasted)
Option C)
If this all gets a bit much, we either skip Magadan and head to Mongolia, but we'll no doubt be in line for similar problems. I don't really want to do this, because I know deep down, we won't ever come this way again. Except maybe if they invent hover cars, but then again, Russia won't stock hover juice. And I really doubt we'd ever fly Airoflot to Magadan.
Option D)
Torch the car and fly to Europe. (said in jest)
Option E) Ship the car from Magadan or Vladivostok home whilst we drown our failure in French food and German autobarns.
It's embarrassing to admit defeat, but tyres is one of those things that if we can't get, we're absolutely stuck. This is Russia, we have no idea about Mongolia or Kazakhstan.
Naysayers - you might be right - we can't hack it. I think we're too young for this - there, I said it. We don't have the maturity or patience it takes for this place. Everyone always rubbishes me because I can't relax. I really think I can relax, but only when I'm confident in process. I'd say sitting for three or four days in a tyre shop full of uncertainty waiting on a delivery. We kept saying today 'Embrace the crazyness' Yep - agree. We did with big smiles and laughs, until we lost two tyres - that wiped the smiles right off our faces.
Thanks everyone for your support. I hope we don't let you down, but I'm not above admitting that we're struggling today. Lets see what tomorrow brings!
I just wonder has low tyre pressure caused the problem dad
ReplyDeleteJust so Graeme and Cassie's family appreciates the tyre problem. The area gets so cold in winter (minus 60) that the rocks shatter. These sharp broken rocks are used to gravel the roads. I got punctures in the same spot, in the sidewall about 1 inch from the tread (I destroyed 3 tyres). I put it down to the sharp rocks cutting the sidewalls.
ReplyDeleteThe locals just put up with it, you see heaps of people dealing with flats. There are little tyre shops everywhere - called Shinomontage.
Once they get onto the main road at Kyubeme, they should be OK. There is heaps of traffic, and trucks are carting goods up and down the road. As their tyre is a common size, they should get a replacement in Ust Nera. Bolot is a cool guy - he will help them if they get stuck.
To put people at ease as to the network of help that is available up there. Graeme SMS messaged my phone here in Brisbane last night. He was also able to contact Bolot. As a backup I emailed Bolot and he replied within the hour saying he had arranged for a local couple to help. Ironically, the available help is better than in Outback Australia!
Ok I know it will sound trite, but...hang in there and don't despair. You're both very resilient and resourceful. Don't forget that. This too, shall pass.
ReplyDeleteJon, thanks for the reassuring message for us!
- Nora xo
Young Padwan
ReplyDeletePatience must have you.:-)
Option D if you can claim insurance.LOL
This trip was always going to throw up challenges you have never encountered as you are out of your comfort zone. These adventures will help you develop new adaptive skills by making you outside the square a lot and appreciate the conforts of the familiarity of home.
My opinion is continue to push on with your plans unless it is absolutely impossible or time constraints, such as visa's, occur.
So, suck it up, take a tablespoon of concrete mixed with a shitload of valium to harden up and chill at the same time and don't forget the good experiences.
BTW, of all the research you have done about this trip, how many said it was all smooth sailing?
Cheers
Master Yoda LOL
Bummer guys... but I can only reiterate what Warren and Nora said. You guys *will* get thru this. Jon, thanks for stepping in mate - you're a legend, and Bolot is owed a case of Vodka at some point.
ReplyDeleteIt might seem hopeless at times, and apologies for preaching to the choir, but perseverance and patience will pull you both through. Plus, I don't buy that 'we're too young' thing for a second - you are two of the most capable, flexible and smart people I know.
At the end of the day this was about the adventure. You can consider that box ticked! And hell, I'd give my left arm to eat my way through France - sound's freakin' excellent!